Fashion 1920s - 1930s

The 1920s was the decade in which fashion entered the modern era. High fashion until this time had been limited to the affluent and well heeled but with the popularity of simple designs like the Flapper dress which could be easily made at home the styles flourished amongst the middle classes. Women first liberated themselves from constricting fashions and began to wear comfortable clothes (such as short skirts or pants). Men likewise abandoned overly formal clothes and began to wear sport clothes for the first time. The suits which men still wear today are still based, for the most part, on those which were worn by men in the late 1920s. The 1920s were characterized by two distinct periods of fashion. The early 1920s were relatively conservative in nature and changed progressed slowly as many were reluctant to adopt the new styles. From 1925, the styles that have been associated with the Roaring Twenties were passionately embraced by the public and would continue characterize fashion until late in 1930.

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Flappers had their origins in the period of liberalism, social and political turbulence, and increased transatlantic cultural exchange that followed the end of the First World War, as well as the export of African American jazz culture to Europe. The style was widely popularized by the celebrities of the day such as Anita Loos an acclaimed American playwright best known for writing the novel Gentleman Prefer Blondes. Lee Miller, Vogue model turned Photographer and actress Clara Bow who is often cited as the epitome of the style. Gabrielle 'Coco' Chanel was the most important fashion designer of the time who developed the style with her jersey fabrics and easy to wear comfortable modern designs.
The main styles to look out for that best represent the vintage clothing of the 20’s are of course The Flapper Dress – A shapeless shift dress characterised with its boyish flat chest silhouette. Cloche Hats – To complement the radical short flat hair styles the Cloche Hat told everyone that you had short hair. These hats were usually made out of felt and in the shape of a bell and were worn pulled well over the eyes. Wrap-over Coats – Most coats in the 20’s were long and the main feature throughout this time was the wrap-over style. This style of coat was often topped off with a fur type collar. Mary Jane / T-Bar Shoes - kind of strap shoe that typically have low heels, rounded closed toes, and a buckled strap across the instep.
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Despite its popularity, the flapper lifestyle and look could not survive the Wall Street Crash and the following Great Depression. In many ways, however, the self-reliant flapper had allowed the modern woman to make herself an integral and lasting part of the Western World.

In the 1930s Women's fashions moved away from the brash, daring style of the Twenties towards a more romantic, feminine silhouette. The waist was restored to its proper position, hemlines dropped, there was renewed appreciation of the bust, and backless evening gowns and soft, slim-fitting day dresses became popular. The female body was remodeled to a more neo-classical shape and slim, toned, and athletic bodies came into vogue. The fashion for outdoor activities stimulated couturiers to manufacture what would nowadays be called sportswear. The term 'ready-to-wear' was not yet widely used, but the boutiques already described such clothes as being 'for sport'. Men's fashions continued the informal, practical trend that had dominated since the end of the First World War.

Two of the most prominent and influential fashion designers of the 1930s were Elsa Schiaparelli and Madeleine Vionnet. Elsa Schiaparelli showed her first collection in 1929 and was immediately hailed by the press as 'one of the rare innovators' of the day. With her exciting and inventive designs, Schiaparelli did not so much revolutionize fashion as shatter its foundations and was also one of the first designers to promote a new fastner called a zip or zipper. Schiaparelli was a close friend of Christian Berard, Jean Cocteau, and Salvador Dalí, who designed embroidery motifs for her and supplied inspiration for models like the desk suit with drawers for pockets, the shoe-shaped hat, and the silk dress painted with flies and the one bearing a picture of a large lobster.

Styles that indicate the 1930s are Hair style – Glamorous, wavy and sophisticated. Dresses & Clothing – Bias-Cut and Empire Waist Gowns, Knitted Sweaters, Pleated Full Skirts, Pencil Skirts, Tailored Pant Suits Accessories – Pearls, Gloves, Stoles, Fur Coats, Cloche Hats, Berets, Silk Stockings and beaded Handbags. Shoes – Mary Jane's, Flats, Buckle Shoes and Penny Loafers